Assignments for Class 1: Where Does "Virginia" Begin and End?

(NOTE: Follow all the hyperlinks on the page below to read all of the assigned material, except for those hyperlinks associated with the citations of graphics or as references. Once you reach a new page, there may be additional hyperlinks on that page. Don't try to follow the second set of links to yet more pages; there are only so many hours in the day.)

the Eastern Shore is missing...

Objectives for Week 1

1) Let's start with the easiest thing you'll do all semester. Waaaay back in elementary school, did you ever arrange blocks or jig saw puzzles with pieces shaped like the 50 states to make a map of the entire US? Do it again (virtually), as a refresher to discover where Virginia is located in relation to the other states, using Drag-and-Drop the States.

Yes, it's a simple exercise - but when you get to Virginia, notice that the two counties between the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean (the Eastern Shore) were omitted. You'll see the Eastern Shore omitted on lots of maps designed for a national scale, rather than a state or local perspective. (The Upper Peninsula or "UP" of Micigan also gets left off maps, even though it is 30% of that state's land area. A tourism commercial that omitted the UP triggering a Michigan legislator in 2009 to try to mandate that all state-produced maps include the entire state.)1

So, go to Locate Virginia on the Globe - and in the Galaxy - then find the Eastern Shore.

Eastern Shore on map of Virginia
To find the state boundaries, look for the wider blue lines. (Thinner blue lines define county boundaries.)
Source:
Color Landform Atlas of the United States

Can you distinguish Virginia from the adjacent states of Maryland, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, and North Carolina? Can you figure out if the two counties in the Eastern Shore (Accomack and Northampton) are adjacent to Delaware vs. Maryland?

2) Get exposed to Accomack County
Read a little background about the formation of Accomack County. Think Edmund Scarborough and Governor Berkeley would be comfortable with the rough-and-tumble political process of modern times? Compare Census Bureau statistics for land area of Accomack County vs. Northampton County. (Don't confuse Northampton with Northumberland county; some of the state's 95 counties have similar names.) Scroll to the bottom of the statistics to see the "Land Area" data, to confirm if the last boundary adjustment made the size of these two Eastern Shore counties equal.

Land Area of Accomack County
Land Area of Accomack County
Source: Census Burea Quickfacts

3) Find the corners of Virginia
Look at the map of the United States and contrast the shape of Virginia with the shape of other states. You can squint your eyes and morph Virginia into a sort of triangle. Virginia certainly is not a rectangle like Wyoming or Colorado, with four edges defined by latitude and longitude.

map of USA

Start by looking for the edges of the state on a map that shows the political boundaries of the counties/cities/states, as well as the topography (elevation of the mountains/valleys), and find the corners of Virginia. People have diffferent opinions when asked to find the 4 corners of the state. Typically, selections for the southwest and southeast corners are consistent, and sometimes there is consensus on the northeast corner. The toughest choice: which spot do you pick as the northwest corner of Virginia?


political boundaries for the 95 counties and 39 independent cities in Virginia

Pretty simple stuff so far, right? This next challenge is a little harder: find the location of Fairfax County in a satellite image (without the political boundaries) of Eastern Virginia. Look for the District of Columbia boundaries, across the Potomac River, as a guide. Then look at the Western Virginia satellite image - can you find the spot in Giles County where the New River flows into West Virginia?

boundary of Giles County extends northwest, before New River flows into Bluestone Reservoir in West Virginia
boundary of Giles County extends northwest, before New River flows into Bluestone Lake in West Virginia
Source: US Geological Survey (USGS) - National Atlas

4) Use the DeLorme Virginia Atlas & Gazetteer
In the very front of the Virginia Atlas & Gazetteer is the Index. It lists populated places (places where people live), and indicates where you can find that place on a particular map in the atlas. Next to the names of each place are the map number and the grid coordinates on the map.

For example, there's a place in Virginia called Hurt. (The GMU-TV crew discovered they were in a "world of Hurt" when taping a program on moonshine in Virginia...) In my edition of the atlas, Hurt is on Map 44, in the grid D1. Turn to map 44 and notice at the top that the columns are numbered 1-7, while on the side of each page the rows are maked by letters A-D. If you're computer-savvy, think of each map as a spreadsheet. Find the "cell" where Column 1 intersects Row D to locate Hurt - just south of Altavista.

In the Index, you'll find Richmond, Norfolk, Staunton, and the other cities of the state, big and small. You'll find towns like Amelia Court House and Warrenton. You'll find a place called Retreat and a different place called Return - maybe they changed their mind about what direction to go? There are two places in Virginia called Fredericksburg and two called Blacksburg... and even two places called Wolf Glade.

Look up Five Forks, Oak Hill, Fairview, Jones Corner, and Mountain View in the Index, and you'll see that Virginians used some place names more than once. The US Post Office wanted every place in the state to have a unique place name - so one of two towns named "Fairfax" was eliminated. The town in Culpeper County once called "Fairfax" has been renamed "Culpeper," reducing confusion with Fairfax Court House (once in Fairfax County, but now an independent city).

There were once two places called Salem, Virginia. The Fauquier community is now called Marshall, to avoid confusion with the city of Salem near Roanoke. Students of the Civil War who use the original Confederate records to trace Stonewall Jackson's path in August, 1862 to the Second Battle of Manassas will see references to his troops passing through Salem. Those Civil War soldiers led by General Jackson really were marching in Northern Virginia - but the name of the town has been changed, from Salem to Marshall.

Some Native American names were recycled by the colonists and still remain on the map after 400 years of European occupation - Shenandoah and Quantico, for example. However, DeLorme did not try to include every neighborhood in the Index and provide a 100% complete gazetteer of place names, so don't be surprised to discover your favorite shopping center may not be listed.

excerpt from map index

In addition, natural features such as Rappahannock River or Lake Drummond are not included in the Index. However, the Index can help you get started in locating some natural features. Mountain Lake is one of the two natural lakes in Virginia, together with Lake Drummond in the Great Dismal Swamp. (There are only two natural lakes in Virginia. Everything else called a "lake" was created by humans who dammed a stream or river.) Mountain Lake is listed in the Index of the Virginia Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme, because there is a small resort community next to the lake itself. Similarly, the community of Mechums River in the Index and provides a clue about the location of the river itself, while Natural Bridge and Fosters Falls are both populated places and natural features.

one of the many places called Five Forks in Virginia
one of the many places called "Five Forks" in Virginia
Note: current versions of the Atlas (produced after the E-911 program required naming all roads to make addresses easier to find) includes road names as well as numbers
Fosters Falls - a named community, a rapid on the New River, and even a mountain
Fosters Falls - a named community, a rapid on the New River
downstream (north) of the community, and even a mountain

Get out your paper copy of the atlas (yes, you really do need to get a paper copy for this class... go get one) and find these locations. The statewide grid map on the back cover will help you get oriented. Follow some of the highways that transect Virginia, and you won't need to flip back and forth from the Index to find all these places:
  • Follow Interstate 95 south from the Potomac River to the North Carolina border to find: Alexandria, Fredericksburg, Richmond (surely we should learn the location of the state capital at the start of "Geography of Virginia..."), Petersburg, Emporia
  • Follow Interstate 81 south from the West Virginia border to Tennessee to find: Winchester, Harrisonburg, Staunton, Lexington, Roanoke, Abingdon, Bristol
  • Follow US 58 west from the Atlantic Ocean to Cumberland Gap to find: Virginia Beach, Franklin, Emporia, Danville, Martinsville, Galax, Abingdon, Jonesville
  • Follow Interstate 64 west from the Chesapeake Bay to the West Virginia Border to find: Hampton, Williamsburg, Richmond, Charlottesville, Lexington, Covington
  • Follow US 460 from Norfolk west to the West Virginia border to find: Portsmouth, Petersburg, Farmville, Appomattox, Lynchburg, Roanoke, Blacksburg, Pembroke, Bluefield, Tazewell, Grundy (HINT: the highway slips into West Virginia briefly, between Pembroke and Bluefield, before going west through Tazewell and Grundy to the Kentucky border)

Did you notice some places were on more than one transportation corridor? What do you think was built first, the roads or the cities? To what extent do roads determine where we live in Virginia, and to what extent do residences/employment centers determine where we build roads?

Southwest Virginia
Cumberland Gap at the far southwest corner

1751 map of Virginia by Thomas Fry and Peter Jefferson
1751 map of Virginia by Thomas Fry and Peter Jefferson, showing location of "Fredericktown"
(now Winchester) on the "Waggon Road" to the Potomac River (now Interstate 81)
(Source: Library of Congress)

5) Get familiar with the brown lines on the topographic maps
The DeLorme Atlas and Gazetter, like the 1:24,000 quadrangle (quad) maps of USGS, are also "topographic" (topo) maps. They show the elevation of mountains and valleys with contour lines, with the elevation differences represented by light brown lines illustrating the height of the land above sea level. Look at Hiddenn Valley and Cobbler Mountain, near Warm Springs, as an aerial image and then with the brown topographic lines. (Got a fast Internet connection? Check out the complete topo map, produced in 2011.)

Once you get the hang of it, you can see how the lines display the location of hills and valleys. Note that the countour intervals in the DeLorme Atlas and Gazetter are in meters. Convert the metric units to traditional English units, and you'll discover that 40 meters is roughly 131 feet.

The legend on the inside cover of the DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer explains the colors and categories of information displayed on the map. The legend is the equivalent of a secret decoder ring for interpreting the lines and colors on the paper. You need good eyes to distinguish the symbols on the maps for pipelines vs. powerlines, or woodland vs. orchard - but get out your reading glasses, flip through a few maps, and get to know how to interpret the information.

map of area around Galax
urban areas are portrayed in the atlas as orange, streams are blue, roads are red, forested areas are green,
open fields are white, and county/city boundaries are dashed black lines highlighted in yellow -
but what are the squiggly brown lines?
USGS topo map showing contour lines for Round Top mountain in Albemarle County near Charlottesville
USGS topo map showing contour lines for Round Top mountain
in Albemarle County near Charlottesville

Not all maps have contour lines - the Virginia Department of Transportation (VDOT) highway map and the National Atlas maps use shading to show elevation, while a watershed map may totally omit the topographic layer of information. Most of the topographic maps we will use in this class will include other lines to show the location of roads, rivers, and urbanized areas - but by definition, a "topo" map will always show contours of elevation.

  • a highway map is full of lines that show the location of roads and populated places - check out the VDOT state highway map. The legend on the state highway map will identify the meaning of the different types of lines and colors. For example, urban areas may be shaded yellow and mountains may be shaded blue.
  • a map of the rivers of Virginia can show just the rivers, their watershed boundaries (the boundaries of the land that drains into a river is the "watershed" of that river), and the state political boundaries.
  • in contrast, this National Atlas map includes shading to show the location of the mountains, as well as the blue lines to show the location of the rivers.
  • if you use a radar sensor, you can see the mountains on an image without the clutter of all those contour lines drawn by a cartographer (or a computer...).
  • photos are not topographic maps... but they do allow us to "see" the mountains. Compare the topographic map and the aerial photo of Cumberland Gap, at the far southwest tip of Virginia - and can you see the topographic lines in your head, even though they are not shown on this Google Maps image of Cumberland Gap? (WARNING: the historical path through Cumberland Gap goes between Virginia and Kentucky, but the Google map highlights the community of Cumberland Gap in Tennessee.)
Brush Mountain on state highway map
Shading to show Brush Mountain
on state highway map

Warning: maps are printed in different scales, and some maps measure elevation in meters rather than feet. One meter is roughly 3.3 feet, so 10 meters = about 33 feet, or roughly 10 yards. The scale of the DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer maps is identified on the bottom of each page. The contour lines are 40 meters apart on the maps in that atlas, compared to 20 feet apart on the 1:24,000 scale USGS topo maps.

mountain topography
This US Geological Survey (USGS) map shows the elevation in feet: Little Cobbler Mountain is 1445 feet above sea level. The countour lines are displayed for every 20 feet of elevation, and are printed a little thicker at 800, 900, 1000, 1100, and 1200 feet (above sea level).

If you were actually walking on Little Cobbler Mountain and followed the arrow, you would be walking uphill from 800 feet to 1200 feet above sea level. If you chose a path around the mountain that followed the contour lines, you would be walking at the same elevation - neither uphill nor downhill. Pretend you are following the black line, walking around Little Cobbler Mountain... you might get tired stepping over boulders and fallen trees, but you won't be walking uphill or downhill. When you follow a contour line, you are walking at a constant elevation.

NOTE: When railroads build their lines, the surveyors identify the contour lines. Raiil construction is designed wherever possible to avoid going uphill or downhill. Locomotives with smooth steel wheels on smooth steel rails can haul massive loads on level tracks, but those locomotives lose much of their power on an uphill grade where the tracks rise as little as 1" in elevation for every 100 feet of horizontal distance. Braking a multi-ton train on a downhill slope is also a major challenge. The railroad depot in downtown Staunton was destroyed in 1890, after a Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) train headed downhill was unable to stop... and plowed right through the building.

Bicyclists tend to be especially conscious of contours. The Washington and Old Dominion (W&OD) bike path in Northern Virginia is a flat trail that was built originally for a railroad to connect Alexandria with the coal fields of Hampshire County (in what is now West Virginia). The tracks were never extended west of Purcellville into the Shenandoah Valley and then further west into the coal fields. It was too expensive to create a flat route through the Blue Ridge in western Loudoun County by carving a tunnel or a massive trench through the mountains.

Blue Ridge near Roanoke
Blue Ridge near Roanoke

Look at any map of the western part of Virginia, and train your eyes and brain to recognize ridges vs. valleys. Then compare maps of the southwestern corner of Virginia with maps of the southeastern corner. It should be obvious that the Eastern Shore is flat, while Lee County has valleys and mountains. Wonder area has waterfalls? Surfing might be better in Virginia Beach, but the tallest mountain there is an old solid waste landfill known as Mt. Trashmore.

Where the contour lines are printed very close to each other, you'll looking at a steep hillside. In the image to the right, there's a relatively flat plateau to the west of Trimble Mountain (in this case, west is towards the left side of the map). If you bicycled on Forest Road 95, you'd stay on relatively level ground until you get near Todd Lake. However, if you took your mountain bike from the road up to the top of Elkhorn Mountain, you'd have a steeper climb - and a rather exiting descent, compared to road biking.

DeLorme map west of Staunton

Hikers on the Appalachian Train are also conscious of contours. As described in the legend on the inside cover - you really are getting out your paper copy of the atlas and checking these things as we go, right? - the DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer maps portray the trail as a series of black circles.

As shown on the map on the right, near Roanoke the trail stays relatively level on Catawba and Tinker Mountains. There is just a slight diversion to climb McAfee's Knob north of Route 311, before you reach the Botetourt County line.

In addition to getting familiar with the legend for the DeLorme maps, you should also get savvy about standard USGS topographic symbols.

  • See Topographic Map Symbols, and follow the links to read all of the Introduction and Map Symbols pages. The sections on Land Surface Features, Water Features, Buildings and Related Features, and Roads, Railroads, and Other will be especially important.
  • NOTE: For this particular reading assignment, you only need to view 9 separate web pages. There are links on those 9 pages to more material, but you won't have time to follow every link until you reach the end of the Internet...
Feeling confident? Test yourself - use the index in the Virginia Atlas and Gazetteer to find Glasgow, and then trace the James River eastward as it flows downhill past Lynchburg and Richmond to the Chesapeake Bay at Norfolk. Compare the topographic contours on maps #18/19 with maps #34/35 in that Virginia Atlas & Gazetteer.

(OPTIONAL MATERIAL: Still confused by topographic maps? If you want more information, I recommend Topographic Mapping by the US Geological Survey.)

Appalachian Trail
Appalachian Trail route (dotted black line) west of Roanoke


Whew, almost finished with the basic "how to read a map" items... As soon as we're through the last few map interpretation items, we'll tackle some content on how Virginia's boundaries were defined.

6) Learn how to tell which way the rivers run (Don't assume from the way a map hangs on the wall that North is "up," so rivers can't flow north...)

7) Follow the James River
The James River drops nearly 1,000 meters from its start in Highland County to Hampton Roads. See how far you can trace the James River upstream on the map of Virginia (Source: Virginia, from Global Land One-kilometer Base Elevation (GLOBE) Project of NOAA's National Geophysical Data Center).

8) Understand Map "Scale" (bottom line: maps of smaller areas are larger scale maps)

9) Learn how to Use the Geographic Names and Information System
- find out how many places are named "Little River" and "furnace" in Virginia
- use GNIS to determine the elevation of a "populated place"

10) Read What's At the Corners?
- what percentage of Assateague Island National Seashore map is in Virginia? (Note that the map is not portrayed with north to the top.) Most of Assateague Island is in Maryland, but the barrier island is migrating south. The part in Virginia, north and west of Chincoteague, is expected to keep growing.
- check out the Assateague Island National Seashore Coasts/Shorelines, Historic Shorelines - Toms Cove, Virginia (the boundaries along the Atlantic Ocean are not as static as the surveyed boundary lines marking other sides of Virginia), the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge brochure, and the history of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge

Chesapeake Bay bathymetry
Chesapeake Bay bathymetry - showing
edges of the land and depths of the water

11) Read the following:
- Virginia Charters and Boundaries
- How Virginia Got Its Boundaries
- get familiar with The First Charter
"in some fitt and conveniente place between fower and thirtie and one and fortie degrees of the said latitude all alongest the coaste of Virginia and coastes of America aforesaid..."
- get familiar with The Second Charter
"in that place of America called Virginia, from the pointe of lande called Cape or Pointe Comfort all alonge the seacoste to the northward twoe hundred miles and from the said pointe of Cape Comfort all alonge the sea coast to the southward twoe hundred miles; and all that space and circuit of lande lieinge from the sea coaste of the precinct aforesaid upp unto the lande, throughoute, from sea to sea, west and northwest; and also all the island beinge within one hundred miles alonge the coaste of bothe seas of the precincte aforesaid;..."
- get familiar with The Third Charter
"we doe by theis presents, give, grannt and confirme unto the said Treasurer and Company of Adventurers and Planters of the said Citty of London for the First Colony in Virginia, and to their heires and successors for ever, all and singuler the said iselandes [whatsoever] scituat and being in anie part of the said ocean bordering upon the coast of our said First Colony in Virginia and being within three hundred leagues..."

- NOTE: there is much historical data here to explain how the lines were drawn, but remember - quizzes are open book. There's no need to memorize all the dates. Also, the "How Virginia Got Its Boundaries" paper (by Karl Phillips, a star student in 1999), refers to the Third Charter as being issued in 1611. That charter was issued on March 12, 1611... if dated by the Old Style Julian calendar, when a new year did not begin until March 25. Using the New Style Gregorian calendar implemented in England in 1752, the Third Charter was issued on March 12, 1612.

12) Check out the evolution of some of the edges of the state
- Virginia-Maryland Boundary - read the Compact of 1785
- Fairfax Grant
- Virginia-Pennsylvania Boundary
- Virginia-North Carolina Boundary
- Virginia Land Cessions
- Virginia and the Outer Continental Shelf

False Cape State Park
False Cape State Park (City of Virginia Beach)

13) Video
Watch the "Edges of Virginia" video. It is streamed on GMU-TV, as well as broadcast.

14) Web Exercise
At the Library of Congress, examine A map of the most inhabited part of Virginia containing the whole province of Maryland with part of Pensilvania, New Jersey and North Carolina drawn by Joshua Fry & Peter Jefferson in 1751. Can you find where GMU is located today?

15) Map Exercise
Use your Virginia Atlas and Gazetteer and trace Route 58 across the southern boundary of Virginia. Start building your skills in following a line across multiple maps, flipping the pages in the atlas as you connect the end of the Route 58 on the edge of one map to the start of the road on the next page. Tracing bighways offers you a chance to make a transect across the state's rural, suburban, and urban regions in Virginia. Note where the urbanizing area is marked in southeastern Virginia by the change in map colors.

Natural Chimneys
Natural Chimneys (Augusta County)

References

1. National Public Radio - All Things Considered, "Mich. Bill Gives Upper Peninsula Some Respect," July 15, 2009, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=106658666 (last checked July 26, 2009)


Geography of Virginia (GGS380)
Virginia Places